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We Put Four Kitchen Aid’s From The Last 50 Years Head-To-Head

A KitchenAid is a home cook must-have and after decades, it’s finally getting a redesign. WIRED’s Julia Forbes puts models from the last 50 years to the test (with a bakery’s worth of bread).

Released on 04/29/2026

Transcript

For the first time in over 70 years,

KitchenAid is relaunching the design

of its time tested and beloved stand mixer.

I thought the ultimate test would be putting it

in a head-to-head challenge

versus not just a recent 2010 model,

but models from the 1990s and the 1960s era.

It will all be making the same recipe at the same time,

which will be chaos, but will give us a detailed comparison.

It's like a competitive game show, but in my kitchen.

This could either go really well or really badly.

You may be wondering, why are we doing bread

to test a KitchenAid Plus new stand mixer?

We use mixers for all sorts of things, right?

Dips, fresh pasta, bread, pastries, what have you.

I was consulting my editor, Kat Merck, who also used

to be a cookbook editor and is a chef herself,

and she pointed out that in her experience,

KitchenAids have actually struggled

with bread making in the past.

Engines can burn out if the dough is too tough

or it just doesn't mix thoroughly.

So bread it is.

So it looks like this one's done the best job

of incorporating all the ingredients.

This one's gotten its butter scraped all over the sides.

This one is still on the dryer side to me,

but it looks incorporated, but it looks dry.

This one is definitely not as incorporated

because this one didn't have a bread hook,

so this was kneaded by hand.

[upbeat music]

This was a lot of work,

so we're gonna go over some visual things first.

1960s loaf right here, she is by far the tallest,

and honestly, because there was no bread hook,

it was hand kneaded, so technically disqualified.

Here's the 1990s loaf, looking solid.

2015, but the KitchenAid Plus did the best job

with staying quiet, stability,

incorporating the ingredients,

and look how beautiful, it's like store bought

and no contest.

A knife.

People are walking by my house and my blinds are open.

How do I explain this to them?

It's very light and airy, kind of like Challah bread.

I will say that this mixer seemed to have a little bit

of a harder time getting all of the ingredients together

with the bread hook.

Okay, this one's chewier.

[object shaking]

I almost wonder if I like the 1960s one more.

The easiest to slice into so far.

It's smooth, it still has good bite to it.

Upscale sliced white bread that you would get at the store.

That's great.